Dhak, Dhunuchi, and Defence Bonds: Durga Puja in Mhow

As the air grew heavy with dhoop and dhuna, and the rolling beat of the dhak echoed across this small garrison town, a circle of dancers slowly appeared in the haze — men in white dhoti and kurta, red sashes tied around their waists, silver anklets glinting on their ankles.

They stepped forward with clay censers of burning husk. Their faces — once stern on parade grounds — now lit up with joy as they swayed gracefully before the Devi. A glorious Maa Durga must surely have smiled at the sight: her soldier-sons, all above sixty, dancing like boys again.

Soon they were joined by other soldiers — both serving and retired — their children, and their wives in red-bordered saris, completing the smoky circle of joy. It was the dhunuchi naach on Ashtami night. For the small Bengali community, far from Kolkata’s towering pandals, it was perhaps the most poignant image of Puja 2025: tradition kept alive not in scale or spectacle, but in the intimacy of shared rhythm, laughter, and memory.

When UNESCO recognised Kolkata’s Durga Puja as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021, it was honouring this spirit that thrives not only in Bengal, but also in expat neighbourhoods abroad and in unlikely corners of India such as this cantonment town.

In Mhow, MP, where defence personnel and their families celebrated one of central India’s most vibrant pujas, this spirit came in many hues. For Brigadier Anamitra Samanta and his wife Taposhi, it was “to reclaim what was often missed during years of postings and transfers.” For Naib Subedar Deepak Duari (Retd.) and his wife Atoshi, it was a way to teach their children “their roots and rituals.” And for Damayantee Sugumar, married outside the community, it was simply a “taste of home away from home.”

“Be it Miami, Madrid or Mhow, you will find families in red-bordered saris and men in dhotis dancing to the beat of the dhak. Whatever the distance, the rhythm is the same. That’s a living tradition, and we want to keep it alive,” reminded Lt. General Subrata Saha (Retd.).

A Living Tradition

If Kolkata dazzles with artist-designed pandals, Mhow glowed through the camaraderie of shared effort. “There are not too many Bengalis in the Armed Forces. For a handful of us who settled here, it was pure luck we found each other,” shared Manoshi Bose. “And so we decided to come together to bring alive our rich heritage,” added Group Captain Bishwajit Bose, VSM (Retd), President of this Puja.

This shared effort took many forms, drawing on the creativity and talent Bengalis bring to every celebration. Some pooled their skills to craft eco-friendly handmade décor that gave the pandal its festive charm. Others scripted and staged a witty musical tracing the history of Bengali music, from the 12th-century Vaishnav Padavali to modern Jeebonmukhi gaan.

“Our children will remember this fun music lesson forever,” said Ex-Hav Santosh Pal and his wife Shikha, whose entire family participated in the production. Meanwhile, young adults and their grandparents designed a storytelling workshop. Timeless tales from children’s literature were brought alive.

“Children learn not from books, but by listening, watching, and playing their part,” said 87-year-old Manju Sen. “We elders have the responsibility of passing on language, art, and rituals,” added P. B. Das.

Adda, Art, Theatre, and Food

Like anywhere else, mornings in Mhow began with anjali and adda — prayer and chatter in equal measure — alongside playful ritual contests in conch-blowing, ululation, and alpona art. By evening, the arc lights turned to the stage where variety programs featured music, dance, and theatre.

And then there is food. For Bengalis anywhere in the world, food is memory and heritage. “Cooks were brought from Kolkata to ensure the authentic taste of khichudi, shukto, labra, chutney, and sweets steeped in the aromas of Bengal,” shared Treasurer Subedar Major Dulal Dutta (Retd.).

As Baishali Ganguly summed up: “It is not mantras, but simple rituals — along with adda, art, theatre, and food — that keep our heritage alive across continents and generations.”

Dashami’s Chant

From Anondomela ( Shosti) to dhunuchi naach (Ashtami) and finally the sindoor khela ( Dashami), each ritual welcomes people from every community, turning the pandal into a cultural bridge. The last day of the Puja is filled with deep significance as married women offer sweets and vermilion to the Goddess during sindoor khela, before smearing each other’s faces in red — praying for marital bliss for all, including their beloved Durga.

“Perhaps no other community shares such an intimate bond between goddess and devotee,” said Nishith Bhattacharya, visibly moved, as he and others carried the idol away for immersion. “Finally, months of creativity, practice, and devotion distil into a single chant: aschhe bochor abar hobe (next year again),” noted N. C. Karmakar, Secretary of the committee.

The evening closes with Bijoya Sammilani, where families embrace, exchange sweets, and promise to meet again. As the conch shells fall silent and the dhak grows faint, this promise lingers wherever Bengalis gather: aschhe bochor abar hobe — another chance to celebrate and cherish the sweet heritage of Bengal.